Berat

The town of a thousand windows, under a living castle

A UNESCO World Heritage town where white Ottoman houses stack up both sides of the Osum river, and families still live inside the castle walls above.

When to go

April to June and September to October. Midsummer afternoons are very hot on the castle hill.

Getting there

Two hours by bus or furgon from Tirana's South & North terminal. Easy to combine with Gjirokastër heading south.

Must-see spots

Inhabited fortress with Byzantine churches, cobbled lanes and huge views. Wear grippy shoes.

Ticket: About 400 ALL

16th-century icons inside the castle's Dormition church.

The famous tiered white houses with rows of windows, best seen from across the river.

Quieter side of the river, reached by the 18th-century stone footbridge.

Evening strolling spot where the whole town comes out.

Try: Tavë kosi, roast lamb, local Berat wine

Terrace looking straight at the castle hill.

Try: Slow-cooked byrek and vegetable stews

A family home in Mangalem; call ahead, cash only.

Try: Berat white wine and cheese plates

The hillside opposite Mangalem has the best light at dusk.

The classic: golden light over the Osum valley and both quarters.

Look back at a thousand windows catching the last sun.