City guides
The six towns most travellers actually stay in — what to see, where to eat the local dish, and where to be at sunset.

Tirana
Painted facades, bunker museums and a cable car to the mountains
7 must-see spots

Berat
The town of a thousand windows, under a living castle
5 must-see spots

Gjirokastër
Silver stone roofs below a vast Ottoman fortress
6 must-see spots

Sarandë
Riviera base camp, with Corfu on the horizon
6 must-see spots

Shkodër
Bicycles, café culture and the gateway to the Alps
6 must-see spots

Himarë
The Riviera's calmer half, with coves under the mountains
6 must-see spots