Gjirokastër
Silver stone roofs below a vast Ottoman fortress
The 'stone city' is a UNESCO site of slate-roofed tower houses pinned to a steep hillside, with one of the largest castles in the Balkans on top.
When to go
April to June and September to October. The cobbles are slippery in winter rain.
Getting there
About 4 hours from Tirana, 1.5 hours from Sarandë. Buses stop on the main road below; take a taxi up to the old town.
Must-see spots
Gjirokastër Fortress
Enormous castle with a gun gallery, a captured US spy plane and the whole valley at your feet.
Ticket: About 400 ALL
Old Bazaar
Cobbled shopping street of stone arches, carpets and coffee houses.
Skenduli House
18th-century Ottoman mansion still owned by the family, who show you round themselves.
Zekate House
Twin-towered house with painted reception rooms, high above the bazaar.
Cold War Tunnel
Bunker tunnel under the city, built for the party elite.
Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
Deep blue karst spring, a 30-minute drive towards Sarandë.
Where to eat
Kujtimi
Try: Qifqi (rice balls), lamb with yoghurt
Gjirokastër's own dish, qifqi, is served almost nowhere else in Albania.
Odaja
Try: Grilled meats and stuffed peppers
Small terrace in the bazaar lanes.
Taverna Kuka
Try: Slow-cooked village food
A short walk below the old town, popular with locals.
Sunset & evening spots
Fortress clock tower terrace
The Drino valley turns pink and the slate roofs glow.
Zekate House viewpoint
Look down over the tower houses as the lights come on.
Hikes nearby
- Osumi Canyon Rim · 8 km · Easy